Guatemala cardamom, pink pepper, Turkish rose, Egyptian geranium, methyl pamplemousse, Virginia cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli, Indian papyrus, Somalia incense (oil and absolute), sandalwood, Macedonian oakmoss, Spanish cistus labdanum, musks.
"...boasts no actual oud in its list of materials. If Incense Oud lives up to the second half of its name, it is through the interplay between the woodiness of cedar, patchouli and sandalwood and the ambery, leathery accents of cistus labdanum and oakmoss. The incense, which makes up 25% of the formula, reads as a dark presence, its citrus facets magnified by geranium, methyl pamplemousse (a grapefruit-smelling material) and cardamom – the latter perhaps a subtle quote of the cardamom coffee popular in Arabic countries, its anisic facets combining with pink pepper to refresh the scent. Turkish rose oil, though highly dosed, is seamlessly worked into the blend as a counterpoint to the dark woody facets; a cocktail of musks permeate the scent with their soft animalic notes. Exceptionally smooth, polished and full-bodied, Incense Oud may just be the most darkly sensuous interpretation of its starring notes."
Initially surprisingly soft and floral, strong sandalwood and a really sort of... clean scent? Surprisingly little spice at this point. If you could think of the Platonic ideal of warm clean laundry fresh from the dryer that would be it.
After a short time it developed to a sort of minty overtone with sort of a sweet hay undertone, not strong but somehow pretty intense. I also smelled something almost like very clean fresh sweat which oddly kind of made it for me! I couldn't stop sniffing it to figure out what that smell might be.
With extended wear the floral is pretty much gone and it feels quite sophisticated. Nothing really stands out particularly at this point, it's just warm and creamy and quite spicy. I normally find this sort of spicy "Oriental" style scent really overwhelming and unpleasant but I feel like this is what this style of scent is supposed to be.
This definitely grew on me all day but I am not sure if it's what I was looking for as a signature scent. I will definitely be giving this subsequent wears and I actually could see getting a very small bottle for special occasion wear, but it's not what I would wear day to day.
It also bears mentioning that it's a whipping $236 per ounce, just under $400 for a bottle!
Un Bois Sepia By Serge Lutens
sandalwood, cypress, vetiver, patchouli, opoponax
"The cool, spicy and green top notes of cypress and vetiver conjure the memories of classic English fragrances. We find that unexpected touch of retro incredibly charming. The heart of sandalwood, velvety, deep and sensual, is pure luxury. The theme of unabashed decadence is continued in the base, where patchouli and opoponax create a dark, subtly animalic atmosphere. The contrast of the chilly, aloof top notes and the warm, sensuous base is irresistible."
Initially very sweet and powdery becoming spicier on drydown, I guess what I'm smelling is the opoponax?
My cats all really liked it and sniffed the spot I applied it really obsessively, which was a little weird. My husband couldn't smell it at all and it almost completely flattened out to a pleasant but very old fashioned scent after half an hour.
I would expect to experience this scent ghosting off of the furs of a proud elderly New York socialite but it didn't really do anything for me.
Still to try
Gaiac No 1 By M. Micallef
bergamot, jasmine, cloves, gaiac, vetiver, vanilla
Cadjmere By Parfumerie Generale
myrtle branch, sap, red tangerine, rosewood, Kenyan cypress resin, coconut milk, sandalwood bark, ambrette seed, vanilla
Tam Dao (Eau de Parfum) By Diptyque
Lime, Coriander, ginger, sandalwood, cedarwood, musc, vanilla, amber wood